As I wrote the rough draft for this blog, I was on the airplane from Beijing to Chicago. I was seated next to a young man and woman (who were Chinese). I did not battle over the arm rest. It is clear the arm rest belongs to him. Rather, I am battling for my own shoulder and upper arm. He is overflowing his space, into mine. He is not large, just being Chinese. Before this trip, I would have simply retreated from the space someone else was trying to occupy. Today though, I am pushing back, or simply allowing the contact.
Touching is a fact of getting around in China. We made up some dance moves for riding the subway with moves called "The Nemo"(touching the butt)and "The Moonlanding" (from the t.v. show "Modern Family"). It also includes, elbows out,stand your ground and "you didn't call 'place back'".
Getting on or off the subway involves much pushing. Certainly you do not ever wait your turn. Your turn is when you feel like moving, not when there is a space. There is never a space. At the subway station, there are arrows on the floor for how to get on and off. An arrow in the center pointing out of the subway car and two arrows on each side, pointing diagonally to get into the subway car. This motion happens all at once. To me it is like squeezing a zit, pressure from the sides and the stuff comes out the middle. Sometimes you ride the wave of motion into or out of the subway car. Sometimes you are like a salmon struggling upstream. And always remember this, the subway car is not full until the doors close. (As a contrast, at O'Hare airport, the same arrows are on the floor of the tram that moves you from one terminal to the next. However, there is also a sign saying "Let passengers out of tram before loading." And get this...people actually observe and follow the instruction.)
This I know for sure, the American Indian ads that ran when we were kids about littering, the one with the man who had tears streaming down his face, he probably rolls over in his grave at the sight of all the litter in China. People throw their trash anywhere, into animal exhibits, into streams, ponds, restaurant floors, temple grounds, anywhere. Everywhere.
We went to the Beijing Zoo. A few games we played there was "contact zoo" and "spot the bottlefish" (discarded bottles in the water). I wish I had worn my football shoulder pads to go to the zoo. You have to fight your way through the people to see anything. I proved a quick study at this game and won the round near the panda exhibit scoring some decent photos. Actually, my sister in law held off some people so I could get the photo. Then she said "I have held them off as long as possible." The next thing I know, I am riding the wave of people headed a different direction.
I was home for less than 24 hours, and went downtown to see a play with my daughter. It was VERY hard to restrain myself from pushing through the crowds and be American and polite. I can't imagine the adjustment my brother and sister in law will have. They are spending 18 months in China.
It's interesting, in China, you really don't need to use a thermometer. To gauge the weather, simply observe the men around you. The men lift or roll their shirts, exposing their bellies when it's hot. As best I could tell, it's around 80 degrees when belly buttons are showing. Ribs show for temps of 80-85. Nipples are exposed for temps ranging from 85-90. Over 90, shirts are off and over the shoulder. I found this system of checking the temperature rather accurate, although I couldn't figure out the sliding scale used when humidity was factored in. The question I really have is this , why wasn't Taylor Lautner visiting Beijing when I was?
My flight to Beijing from Chicago was mainly Chinese people. I was surprised to see how few obeyed the seatbelt on sign. From the moment the plane doors closed, several people messed with luggage in the overhead bins, wandered the aisles and visited the restroom. The flight attendants were near hoarse by the time we reached cruising altitude from constantly telling people to sit down.
It became quickly obvious when touring Beijing that posted signs are more of a suggestion rather than a rule to be followed. "No Climbing" meant more "Climb at your own risk". (Even I tested the boundaries of a 'No Climbing' sign...I mean, "when in Rome..." right?) Guard rails at the zoo were disregarded, kids and adults both pounded on the glass of animal exhibits. It was very surprising.
My favorite round of "Get Your China On" was crossing the street. There are no buttons to push for walk signals. There ARE signals, but they are highly ignored. Pedestrians in China do NOT have the right of way. If you do choose to cross the street when the "Walk" signal is illuminated, it means that most traffic has momentarily paused but that you should beware of the cars, bikes, mopeds and other vehicles heading straight for you. The imaginary bubble I usually keep around myself to distance me from vehicles is significantly smaller after visiting China. I have learned to play a mean game of chicken, and managed to keep my pants dry while doing so. My sister in law stopped a car once with an invisible force field shot out from her hand. It was amazing. I actually applauded her. A car came so close to my brother that his watch scratched the guys car.
Basically crossing the street in China was like playing Frogger. As soon as the back bumper passes you, take a step or two forward. Watch carefully. Hop forward, backward, left or right, then step quickly to the sidewalk. Always be ready to stop or adjust your direction. Always avoid going "splat".
In China I found that you either laugh at things, or you'll crack. "Contact Zoo" and subway games of Nemo are not for everyone, and definitely not for those without a sense of humor. Please don't try these games in the U.S.. You will be arrested for assault, or ticketed for endangerment.
No comments:
Post a Comment